Cherry gifts: knitted baby

   

Baby favor: crochet blanket and pillows for kids

Free crochet patterns

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Puffy Bowtie Quilt Block Tutorial, sewing patterns

 

Hi, gang! I've put together a tutorial for a nifty little quilt block that is superb for using up scraps.  I love scrap quilts--they're bright, and random, and I don't have to think as hard about it as I would if I were planning out a fancier quilt (which I've never done, by the way--the thought of it intimidates me). Anyway, this quilt block was the product of a fabulously snowy afternoon over Christmas break at my grandma's house in Oakdale, PA. She was very excited to show me how to make this block--I thought it was going to be the more traditional bowtie pattern, but this one is so nifty I thought I'd share. I don't know where she learned it from, so I don't even know how to credit the design. It's probably on the web somewhere, but I don't know what it's called either to look it up. I am a fountain of knowledge, I tell ya--I promise that I know how to make it though, haha.

Puffy Bowtie Quilt Block Tutorial, sewing pattern

OK, let's get started. This is what we'll be making:

  I used white as my main fabric, but you could also use black, or any other color that will contrast with your bowtie. I have oodles of these squares made in all different scrappy colors.

Once you decide on your fabrics, you will need to cut 3 squares in the bowtie fabric, and 2 squares in the main fabric. I cut my squares at 3 inches, because that's what Grandma said, and I'm not messin' with Grandma. You could cut these in any size you'd like, but this ends up being a pretty nice size.

Obligatory picture of what you'll need.

First, take one of your bowtie fabrics (mine are red floral), and fold it in half, wrong sides together.

Ignore the black lines--they were seam lines I drew when I was planning on hand-stitching the entire thing. Then I remembered how I am and machine-stitched it like a nice, sane person (not that hand-quilters aren't sane--I just have no idea where they have acquired such patience).

Take a bowtie square, right side up. Put the square you folded in half on top, with the raw edges lined up. I like to keep the raw edges of the folded square to the right side--it helps me keep things straight for a later step. Place a main fabric square right side down on top of this. Pin carefully so the edges are all matched up nice and neat.

If you're using a tone-on-tone fabric make sure of which side is which before you sew (that's more of a note to myself. Because I forgot to do that).

Stitch, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. You should have something like the below.

Check to make sure everything is just peachy so you're not filling the swear jar later.

Now you're going to repeat. Take your remaining bowtie square right side up, place it against the folded square, and then place your remaining main fabric square right side down (again with the raw edges to the right--it helps me keep the colors straight so they alternate properly in the finished block). You're just going to pretend that the first two squares you stitched together aren't hanging off the bottom.

You can see the fabric from the other block at the bottom.

Stitch. You're going to have a wonky looking sort of thing after, but you'll be getting the idea of where we're headed.

If this was a real bowtie you might think that this is how I would tie it. And you would be correct.

The next part is only slightly fiddly, but you do need to be precise with lining everything up. What you're going to do is open the "pocket" formed by that center square. I simply stick my fingers in and pull it taut. Once everything is smooth and no extra fabric is stuck in the seam I carefully pin. Perhaps some pictures will help with that puzzled look you might have right now:

Make each seam go a different direction to reduce bulk. The left side is lined up proper. My right side will be tended to shortly (as half of it is under my left thumb, haha).

Once it's all lined up and pinned, carefully stitch.

  For the extra-strength version you can backstitch at the seams, but I don't.

If everything has gone according to tutorial, you should have THIS:

This is the stage when I press my seams. OK, I WOULD press them at this stage...but I haven't done it yet.

  All seams are neat and enclosed.

I have a gallon-sized Ziplock bag crammed full of these right now; here are a few:

These look fun in so many prints, and you can play around a little with patterns and stripes.

I laid mine out to get an idea of placement, and I decided there are going to need to be plain squares in between the bowtie squares. When they are placed one right after the other you sort of lose the look of the block. A bit of plain fabric next to it will make the bowtie pop. I am simply going to take my white fabric and cut squares the same size as my finished blocks (in this case, 5 and 1/2 inches). If I wanted to make life difficult I could sew these on point so the ties are all straight across and connect to one another at the corners...but then I have to worry more about color placement. We'll see how I feel when I get there. Or maybe I'll just say "B'ah! Patchwork totebag!"

So that's it. Pretty simple, eh? As ever, if you have any questions or if I've written something in a confusing way, let me know and I'll do my best to clear it up. Happy quilting!

sweetbeebuzzings.blogspot.com

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Rugs oriental: knitting tutorial

    
Comby cables accents for the home: knitting tutorial
 
Stowe cabin throw rug
Rugs oriental: knitting tutorial

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Andrew's Keepsake - Crochet Tunisian

Andrew's Keepsake

If you are a beginner, you can find a playlist for the basic crochet stitches by clicking on this link.  Beginner Crochet Stitches 


Crochet Geek YouTube -http://www.youtube.com/user/tjw1963

Crochet Geek 2 YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/user/crochet

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  Andrew's Keepsake Crochet Scarf

Video Tutorial:  Andrew's Keepsake Crochet Scarf  Left Hand Version

Skill Level - Intermediate

Abbreviations
DC - Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch

Materials
Size I/5.5 mm crochet hook
Long Crochet Hook - I-5.5mm
4 ply yarn
Tapestry Needle

Multiple: 6+1 - This means you will add 6 extra chains for each extra shell, to make your work wider.

Size of scarf  - 50 inches long, 6 inches wide

Afghan Stitch - There are two passes to complete a row of the afghan stitch.

Work a chain of 25.
If you are using more than 25 loops, you will want to use the longer crochet hook.
Row 1:
Pass 1: Put your hook through the chain, wrap the yarn over and pull through, *Put your hook through the next chain, wrap the yarn over and pull through, continue across from leaving all loops on your hook * until you have 25 loops on your hook.
Pass 2: On the edge only, you will wrap the yarn over, pull through one loop, The remaining stitches will be wrap the yarn over, pull through two, Wrap the yarn over pull through two until you work all the loops of your hook, there will be a total of 25.

Row 2:
Pass 1: The first loop for the next row is on your hook, you will see vertical loops all the way across. Put your hook under the next vertical loop, wrap the yarn over and pull through, *Put your hook under the next vertical loop, wrap the yarn over and pull through, continue across until you get to the last stitch.  On the edge, you will want to insert your hook below two loops on the edge.  This will make a neater appearance, wrap the yarn over and pull through. (25 loops on hook total)
Pass 2: On the edge only, you will wrap the yarn over, pull through one loop, The remaining stitches will be wrap the yarn over, pull through two, Wrap the yarn over pull through two until you work all the loops of your hook, there will be a total of 25.

Rows 3-5: Repeat Row 2 - Keep in mind there are two passes for each row

Once you have completed the five rows of the afghan stitch, you can switch to the shorter hook if you have been using the longer hook.

Shell Row
Row 6: Work a chain one. Work a single crochet through the first stitch.  *Skip two stitches(skipping the vertical loops) Work a shell with 5 double crochet. Skip 2 stitches.  Work a single crochet.  Continue across from *.  When you finish, cut the yarn and secure.  This piece will have a front side and a back side.


Pass 1: Attach yarn to the first stitch of the shell row. Insert your hook through the top of the stitch below the two loops. Pull the yarn through. Insert your hook through the top of the next stitch below the two loops. Pull the yarn through. Continue across.  You will end with 25 loops on your hook.
Pass 2: On the edge only, you will wrap the yarn over, pull through one loop, The remaining stitches will be wrap the yarn over, pull through two, Wrap the yarn over pull through two until you work all the loops of your hook, there will be a total of 25.


Rows 2-5: Repeat Row 2 - Keep in mind there are two passes for each row

You will repeat the afghan stitch rows and the shell stitch

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Which loop to crochet under - Front Loop - Back Loop or Both Loops

If there is no indication to go through the front loop of a stitch or back loop, what I do is put my hook below both loops.  The reason is that I find it looks nicer and will be more secure than one loop.   For example,  when I was first learning to crochet, I was following instructions from a leaflet I had purchased.  It was for a shell afghan.  The instructions were telling me to put the hook through the back loop of the single crochet.  By the time I was done, I had big holes with each shell I had made. The shell is a heavy combination of crochet stitches, so it is bound to pull on the individual strand creating big holes.  Going under two strands will keep it more secure and evenly distribute the slack.  That taught me to go through both loops of the single crochet for that pattern and any other pattern that does not have a decorative purpose.  I also recognized that many of the patterns were advising to go through the back or front loop, when there is no decorative purpose. In the end, it all boils down to your personal preference and the combination of stitches that work best for you.

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Appreciating Hand Made Crochet - Crochet Pricing Recommendations

How do you determine what you will charge for a crochet piece?

How much should we charge when selling crochet work? The formula I went by was double the cost of your materials plus half. I never the thought that was enough, so used the formula as a starting point only.

Crochet is under appreciated with the time that it takes to make larger projects. It can take several weeks or longer to make a large afghan. The same is true when making doily's. Intricate lace can take days and weeks to complete depending on the size.  

Crochet lace doily's have always been my favorite to crochet. When I would sell my work at craft events, people would tell me that it was so expensive. Many of the doily's may take two days or more to complete a doily! I wondered how many of them would go to work for $15 or $25 over two days. $15-$25 was an average price that I asked for each doily. To me the doily's were under-priced! There were always some that would pay the price I was asking. 

Realistically you will not be able to get all of your time, just don't forget to include some of your time in the price of your work.  People who sell their handmade crochet tend to under price their work. I challenge everyone selling crochet to ask just a little bit more. 

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Every Which Way Crochet Scarf - Afghan - Blanket

Every Which Way Crochet Scarf - Afghan - Blanket

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  Every Which Way Crochet Scarf - Afghan - Blanket

Video Tutorial: Left Hand Every Which Way Crochet Scarf - Afghan - Blanket

Skill Level - Easy

Abbreviations
DC - Double Crochet
HDC - Half Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch
CHS - Chains
STS - Stitches
EA - Each


Multiple - 8

Materials
Size K/6.50 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn
Tapestry Needle


Cluster Stitch
Wrap the yarn over your hook, put your hook through the stitch, wrap the yarn over your hook, pull the yarn through, wrap the yarn over your hook, pull through 2 loops.  Leave the 2 remaining loops on the hook.  Wrap the yarn over your hook, put the hook through the same stitch, wrap the yarn over pull it through, wrap the yarn over your hook, pull through all 3 loops to complete the cluster.


Attach a slip knot to the crochet hook.
Work a chain of 28 or work 27 of the Foundation Single Crochet

Row 1:  Work a chain 1, SC in the same stitch and each of the next 2, *CH 2, Skip 2 CHS/STS ,Work a Cluster in the next(see cluster stitch), chain 2, skip 2 CHS/STS , work 1 SC in EA of the next 3 stitches.  Continue across from * Chain 1 and turn.


Row 2:  Ch 1,SC in the same stitch and each of the next 2, *work 2 SC in the next CH 2 space. Work a SC in the cluster, work 2 SC in the next CH 2 SP. Work 1 SC in EA of the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * for the width. 


Row 3: Ch 1, this will be the step up. Work a DC in the same stitch.  Work a cluster in the next single crochet.  *Chain 2, skip 2 single crochet,  work 1 SC in each of the next 3 stitches, chain 2, skip 2 SC, work a cluster in the next stitch. Continue across from *.  When you get across, you will work a double crochet after the cluster.


Row 4: Ch 1,SC in the same stitch, Work a SC in the cluster, work 2 SC in the next CH 2 SP. Work 1 SC in EA of the next 3 stitches.  Work 2 SC in the next CH 2 SP. Repeat from * for the width.

Repeat rows 1-4 for the length.

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How to make the Afghan Tunisian Crochet Stitch - Entrelac

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Crochet Swirl Afghan

Crochet Geek on YouTube


Crochet Spiral Afghan

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial: Crochet Swirl Afghan

Video Tutorial: Left Hand Crochet Swirl Afghan

Skill Level - Easy

Abbreviations
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch
EA - Each
ST - Stitch
DC - Double Crochet



Gauge
4 inches - 10 CM = 7 Rows
4 inches - 10 CM = 11 Stitches

Materials
Size K/6.5 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn Tapestry Needle


Chain 4, join.  You can also use the magic circle to start. 

Round 1:  CH 1, This will not count as a stitch, only the step up. Work *3 DC, CH 2, Complete 5 times total from *, join with the beginning stitch.

Round 2: Slip Stitch to the next stitch. CH 1, Work a DC in the same stitch and 1 DC in the next stitch, Work 3 DC in the next CH 2 space, CH 2, Skip 1 stitch, *Work 1 DC in ea of the next 2 stitches. Work 3 DC in the next CH 2 space, CH 2, Continue around from *. When you get around to the beginning, join with the first stitch.

Round 3: Slip Stitch to the next stitch. CH 1, Work a DC in the same stitch, Work 1 DC in ea of the next 3 stitches, Work 3 DC in the next CH space, CH 3, SC in the same space as the last DC, CH 3, Skip 1 stitch, *Work 1 DC in ea of the next 4 stitches. Work 3 DC in the next CH space , CH 3, SC in the same space as the last DC, CH 3, Continue around from *. When you get around to the beginning, join with the first stitch.

Round 4:  Slip Stitch to the next stitch. CH 1, Work a DC in the same stitch, Work 1 DC in ea of the next 5 stitches, Work 3 DC in the next CH space , CH 3, SC in the next CH 3 space, CH 3, Skip 1 stitch, *Work 1 DC in ea of the next 6 stitches. Work 3 DC in the next CH space , CH 3, SC in the next CH 3 space, CH 3, Continue around from *. When you get around to the beginning, join with the first stitch.


Round 5: Slip Stitch to the next stitch. CH 1, Work a DC in the same stitch, Work 1 DC in ea of the next 7 stitches, Work 3 DC in the next CH space , CH 3, SC in the next CH 3 space, CH 3, Skip 1 stitch, *Work 1 DC in ea of the next 8 stitches. Work 3 DC in the next CH space , CH 3, SC in the next CH 3 space, CH 3, Continue around from *. When you get around to the beginning, join with the first stitch.

Round 6: Slip Stitch to the next stitch. CH 1, Work a DC in the same stitch, Work 1 DC in ea of the next 9 stitches, Work 3 DC in the next CH  space, CH 3, SC in the next CH 3 space, CH 3, Skip 1 stitch, *Work 1 DC in ea of the next 10 stitches. Work 3 DC in the next CH  space, CH 3, SC in the next CH 3 space, CH 3, Continue around from *. When you get around to the beginning, join with the first stitch.

Round 7:  Slip Stitch to the next stitch. CH 1, Work a DC in the same stitch, Work 1 DC in ea of the next 11 stitches, Work 3 DC in the next CH  space, CH 3, SC in the next CH 3 space, CH 3, Skip 1 stitch, *Work 1 DC in ea of the next 12 stitches. Work 3 DC in the next CH  space, CH 3, SC in the next CH 3 space, CH 3, Continue around from *. When you get around to the beginning, join with the first stitch.
 
Round 8: Slip Stitch to the next stitch. CH 1, Work a DC in the same stitch, Work 1 DC in ea of the next 13 stitches, Work 3 DC in the next CH 2 space, CH 3, SC in the next CH 3 space, CH 3, Skip 1 stitch, *Work 1 DC in ea of the next 14 stitches. Work 3 DC in the next CH space, CH 3, SC in the next CH 3 space, CH 3, Continue around from *. When you get around to the beginning, join with the first stitch.

You will continue making the afghan until you get the size you are looking for.  

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Crochet Boucan Pattern Stitch - Scarf - Afghan

Crochet Boucan Pattern Stitch

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  Crochet Boucan Pattern Stitch

Video Tutorial:  Left Hand Crochet Boucan Pattern Stitch


Video Tutorial:  How to do the Extended, Elongated, Long Crochet Stitches

Skill Level - Intermediate

Abbreviations
DC - Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch
EA - Each
SK - Skip

Materials
Size I/5.5 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn
Tapestry Needle


Multiple - 6

Note: If the extended DC on the edge are not pulled up high enough, the stitches on the edge may pucker.  You can work 1 or 2 less chains to compensate for the pucker.

Chain 30,  this will be a small swatch.  You will add chains in increments of 6 to increase the width.

Row 1: Work a DC in the 3rd CH from the hook and in each of the next 2 stitches.  CH 3, Skip 3 chains. Work 1 DC in each of the next 3 chains. *CH 3, Skip 3 chains. Work 1 DC in each of the next 3 chains. Continue across from * for the width.  Work 1 DC in each of the remaining 4 chains on the edge.  Each edge will have 4 DC.  Cut the yarn and change color.

Row 2:  Attach the new color to the previous ending point.  Chain 6, Skip the 3 DC. Work an Extended DC(see video) over the chain and through the beginning foundation chain, 2 rows below. Work 2 more extended DC. *CH 3 Skip the next 3 DC, Work an extended DC in each of the next 3 chains 2 rows below. Continue across from *.  When you get to the edge, work one last chain 3, work a DC in the last stitch. Cut the yarn and change color.

Row 3: Attach the new color to the beginning stitch.  Chain 3, working over the chain, work an extended DC in each of the next 3 stitches 2 rows below. *Chain 3, working over the chain, work an extended DC in each of the next 3 stitches 2 rows below. Continue across from * for the width. Work a DC in the last chain on the edge.  Cut the yarn and change color.

Row 4:  Attach the new color to the previous ending point.  Chain 6, Skip the 3 DC. Work an Extended DC over the chain and through the beginning foundation chain, 2 rows below. Work 2 more extended DC. *CH 3 Skip the next 3 DC, Work an extended DC in each of the next 3 chains 2 rows below. Continue across from *.  When you get to the edge, work one last chain 3, work a DC in the last stitch. Cut the yarn and change color.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 for the length.

Row 5: In progress - thank you for your patience. If you need further assistance, the video covers this row.
 

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Star Lite Crochet Baby Afghan Blanket

Star Lite Crochet Afghan

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  Star Lite Crochet Afghan

Video Tutorial: Left Hand Star Lite Crochet Baby Afghan Blanket

Skill Level - Intermediate

Abbreviations
HDC - Half Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch
PC - Popcorn

Materials
Size H/5 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn - 1020 yards - 932 meters
Tapestry Needle

Popcorn - Each popcorn stitch will consist of 3 double crochet, then join.

NOTE: You can reverse on each round  so the points are not leaning.   If you reverse, you will need to join the popcorn stitch on the same side you are working and push it to the front so the ridge is all on one side.   Leaning Crochet Stitches


Chain 4, Join with the beginning Stitch.

Round 1:  CH, *Work 3 DC through the loop, join with the beginning stitch to form the popcorn. CH 2, complete 6 times from *, join with the beginning stitch.

Round 2: CH, *Work 3 DC through the previous PC, join with the beginning stitch to form the popcorn.  This next part will be the increase on each point. It will consist of DC, CH1, DC, CH1, DC, CH1, DC in the same chain space.  Complete 6 times total from *, join with the beginning stitch.

Round 3:  *Work 3 DC through the previous PC, join with the beginning stitch to form the popcorn. Work a DC, CH 1 in the next stitch, Work the increase at the center point, DC, CH1, DC, CH1, DC, CH1, DC, CH 1.  Work a DC in the next stitch.



There will be 1 extra stitch on each round so it is important to count to so you do not end up with a lopsided star.   I have approximately 25 rounds and will be working a few more, which will make a nice size baby afghan. 

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What was your first crochet project?

What was your very first Crochet Project? 

 Mine was a thread snowflake. I threw it away because everything was crooked and the stitches were uneven.  Later I made a shell baby afghan for my son.  The afghan helped me learn some stitch consistency in repeating the same stitch over and over.

I threw a lot of my first crochet projects away because I thought they were ugly. I regret doing that now and wish I would have saved some of them.  I was very hard on myself and felt that everything had to look perfect.  Back then as a "green crocheter", the perfection I was looking for came with a lot of practice. This gave me the stitch consistency making everything look even. 

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Recycle from Clothing - Crochet Tip #58

If you have old clothing that is going to be thrown away, check it thoroughly to see what you can recycle.

• Save the buttons. They work well for eyes or decorations on your crochet projects.
• Pockets and zippers may come in handy as an embellishment.
  
• Some clothing may have unique designs that can be sewn on to a crochet hat or afghan.
  

This is a great way to stretch your crafting budget. Please share your ideas on what you recycle and use with crafting.

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What is the Right Side of a Crochet Piece?

From time to time you may come across crochet instructions telling you to have the "right side of the work facing you." Right side means, the side facing out after your project is finished.

1. If you like the look of the back of the stitches, that can be your right side.
   
2. When you work the afghan stitch, you will have two distinct looks. Either side of the work can be used as your right side.
3. The front side for a hat made in rounds, will be the side facing you as your are making the hat. Maybe you like the look of the inside better so that can be your right side.
   
4. If you are familiar with doily's, the part facing you as you are making the doily will be your right side.
5. Think about a store bough T-shirt. The wrong side is the inside with all of the seams holding the shirt together. The right side is the external part that looks nice and neat.
   

When working in rows you will always alternate sides so both sides could be considered the right side or the front side. When working in rounds, some people like to turn so the stitches are alternating in both directions. If you do not turn with rounds, you may have a distinct front side that will look a little different than the back. Right side is open for interpretation. Front side does not always mean right side.

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Blankets can be made with Filet Crochet

Afghan Image courtesy of Herr Projects. All proceeds created by Herr Projects benefit the homeless and less fortunate in the Oklahoma City area. The afghan was made with 4 ply yarn and will fit the top of a queen size bed.

You may find more Filet Crochet Charts by visiting Free Filet Crochet Charts and Patterns.




Filet Crochet Native American 1

Pattern by Teresa Richardson

Chain 301.

Chain 3 to to turn which will count as the first double crochet.Below is an estimate for the various size thread.

Size Estimate:

Crochet Cotton Size 10- width= 23", height=25.5", Steel Hook 7, 1163 yds

Crochet Cotton Size 20- width= 22", height= 24.5", Steel Hook 9, 1091 yds

Crochet Cotton Size 30- width= 21", height= 23.5", Steel Hook 11, 1020 yds

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